Zuppa di Cipolle al Pecorino
Onion Soup with Pecorino Cheese

Although onion soup is usually associated with French cuisine, Italians have countless renditions, each one as delicious as the next. The Tuscan version, called cipollata, is a thick stew of slow-cooked onions into which eggs are beaten at the last minute. Umbrians add a touch of tomato to theirs, and in Calabria, Marsala and a shot of grappa are used to flavor the soup. I’ve taken some liberties and combined my favorite elements from several versions to come up with this one.

Makes 4 main-course servings

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 pounds yellow onions or a mix of yellow and red, halved and thinly sliced

1 teaspoon minced fresh marjoram

1/4 cup dry Marsala

1 tablespoon tomato paste

4 cups Brodo di Carne or best-quality canned low-sodium beef broth, heated to a simmer

Freshly grated pecorino romano cheese for serving

In a Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot, melt the butter over medium heat. When the butter has melted and begins to sizzle, add the onions and stir to coat well. Sprinkle in the marjoram and salt, reduce the heat to low, and let the onions cook, uncovered, stirring from time to time, for 45 minutes, or until they are golden and velvety soft.

Raise the heat to medium-high and pour in the Marsala. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes, or until some of the wine has evaporated. In a small bowl, stir together the tomato paste and 1/4 cup of the broth. Add the diluted tomato paste to the soup and stir. Pour in the rest of the broth. Reduce the heat to low once again and simmer, partially covered, for 30 to 45 minutes. 

Taste the soup and adjust the seasoning with salt. Ladle the hot soup into shallow bowls and sprinkle each serving with a tablespoon or two of cheese.

© The Glorious Soups and Stews of Italy, Chronicle Books, 2006.