Vanishing Cheese Risotto
Makes 6 first-course servings or 8 to 10 side-dish servings

When we were kids, my sister decided to make risotto for dinner. This was while our parents were away and we were being supervised by a cousin who had come to visit from Italy. Without our mother’s watchful eye in the kitchen, my sister saw an opportunity to make risotto the way she liked it best: with lots of cheese and lots of butter. The more she cooked and stirred the rice, the more she added chunks of butter and mozzarella and handfuls of Parmigiano, and the more she added them, the more quickly they disappeared into the pot. I am sure our cholesterol levels have never been the same. The version I present here is somewhat more restrained (though by no means light) and more refined. It is not something to eat every day, and of course you can serve it in judicious portions. But it is definitely worth the occasional splurge.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup diced shallots

3 cups Arborio, Carnaroli, or other short-grain risotto rice

1/2 cup dry white wine

8 to 10 cups best-quality fat-free, low-sodium canned chicken broth, heated to a simmer

1 whole 8-ounce block imported robiola, cut into medium0size pieces, rind included (see Cook’s Note)

1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus a handful of shavings for garnish

Kosher or sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil and butter in a large Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot placed over medium heat. When the butter has melted and begins to sizzle, add the shallots and sauté, stirring, until they are softened, about 7 minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat it thoroughly. Cook the rice for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly to prevent it from sticking, until the grains are shiny and translucent. Raise the heat to high and pour in the wine, stirring and letting it bubble for a minute or so. When most of the wine has been absorbed, reduce the heat to medium and add a ladleful of hot broth. Cook, stirring frequently, until almost all of the broth is absorbed. You do not need to stir the risotto continuously, but be sure to stir it often, and take care that the grains do not stick to the bottom of the pot. Continue to cook the risotto in this way for about 20 minute or a little bit longer, adding broth by the ladleful, until the rice is almost but not completely cooked. It should be creamy but still al dente—a little bit firm in the center.

Turn off the heat and stir in the robiola and Parmigiano cheeses, stirring vigorously to incorporate them. Taste and season the risotto with salt and lots of freshly ground pepper. Spoon the risotto into a warmed serving bowl and garnish with an additional grinding of black pepper and a scattering of Parmigiano shavings. You may also serve the risotto in individual shallow rimmed bowls. Garnish each with some pepper and a few Parmigiano shavings.

Cook’s Note: Robiola is a small square or round cheese made from a combination of cow’s, goat’s, and sheep’s milk and produced in northern Italy’s Piedmont region. It has a bloomy white rind (like brie), a creamy interior, and a high fat content.

© Big Night In: More Than 100 Wonderful Recipes for Feeding Family and Friends Italian-Style, Chronicle Books, 2008.

Click Here to see Past Recipes