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A Warm Look at
Italian Comfort Food The Washington
Post
On the Bookshelf
Wednesday, September 27, 2006
THE GLORIOUS SOUPS AND STEWS OF ITALY
By Domenica Marchetti
Chronicle Books, 2006, $19.95
77 recipes AUTHOR
Alexandria resident and former journalist Domenica Marchetti has
been published in the pages of Cooking Light and Fine Cooking
magazines and The Post's Food section. This is her first cookbook,
which took her a year to write. Her family's cooking heritage,
many happy trips to Italy and her natural affinity for the subject
matter give the book depth and warmth.
FORMAT In "Glorious," there
seems to be just enough, and not too much. The
design of the relatively slim paperback offers a soothing,
charming Italian Zen. The introduction is must
reading, as it explains Marchetti's practicalities and preferences
with straightforward ease. You'll learn, for example, that where a
recipe calls specifically for one of her basic broth or sauce
recipes, you should go by the book. Sometimes,
underpinnings that come from a can just won't do. Take the time to
build her homemade meat broth (Brodo di Carne), and you'll be able
to turn around the delicate poached egg soup from Pavia (Zuppa
alla Pavese) in minutes. Chapters are organized
by seasonal bounty: late summer's roasted tomatoes and peppers,
winter's hearty pots of veal and lentils. The recipes won't send
you on treasure hunts for special ingredients.
Among the nice touches: a design that holds most recipes to a
single page; the inclusion of recipes for crostini and other
accompaniments; the four easy, seasonal crostata recipes that end
"Glorious" on a sweet note; and the winning photographs of William
Meppem, whose work we admire on the pages of Martha Stewart Living
magazine. SAMPLE TIP
"Unless you have good well water or exceptional tap water, use
either filtered tap water or spring water for making broths, soups
and stews." WHO WOULD
USE THIS BOOK People who appreciate Italian cookery and
the comfort and nutrition of a steaming bowl of soup. Cooks of all
skill levels will find a page where they can jump in.
-- Bonnie S. Benwick |
