Cream of Cauliflower Soup with Smokey Blue Cheese and Pancetta Croutons

Rarely am I able to pass a display of snowy cauliflower heads at the farmers’ market without scooping one up into my shopping bag. I appreciate cauliflower for its versatility. It is at home whether immersed with peppers in pickling brine, slow-roasted with onions, or puréed in this creamy soup.

My preferred blue cheese for this soup is Rogue Creamery Smokey Blue, but imported Gorgonzola piccante or really, any good crumbly blue, will do nicely. As for the pancetta “croutons,” they are something I devised when I made my own pancetta for the first time awhile back and was looking for ways to showcase it (any good pancetta will do). Simply sliced off a fat piece, cut it into big dice, and fry them in a skillet. Vegetarian? Use bread croutons instead. (This recipe can also be found in The Glorious Vegetables of Italy.)

CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER SOUP WITH SMOKEY BLUE CHEESE AND PANCETTA CROUTONS
Makes 4 to 6 servings

Ingredients
8 ounces pancetta, cut into 3/4-inch dice
2 large leeks, white and pale green parts, thoroughly washed, halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise into small strips (2 cups)
2 ribs celery, chopped (3/4 cup)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter (optional)
1 large head cauliflower (about 1 1/2 pounds), trimmed and cut into small florets (I cut the tender part of the core into chunks and used that, too)
1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
3 to 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
1 cup heavy cream or whole milk
3 ounces Rogue Creamery Smokey Blue cheese, crumbled

Instructions
1. Put the pancetta in Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot and set it over medium heat. When the pancetta begins to sizzle lower the flame to medium-low and saute, stirring from time to time, for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the pancetta has rendered some of its fat and is browned and crispy. Use a slotted spoon to remove the pancetta to a paper towel-lined bowl and set aside.

2. Pour out all but 3 tablespoons of the rendered pancetta fat and add the butter to the pot, if using. When the butter is melted add the leeks and celery, taking care to stir them well to coat them with the fat. Cook the vegetables for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are wilted and the celery has softened a bit. Stir in the cauliflower and toss well to coat. Cover the pot and cook over medium-low for about 15 minutes, until the cauliflower begins to soften. Stir the vegetables from time to time as they cook.

3. Uncover the pot and sprinkle in the flour. Mix well to incorporate it into the vegetables and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the flour has been absorbed. Pour in 3 cups of chicken broth, raise the heat to medium, and bring the soup to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low or low to maintain a gentle simmer, cover the pot, and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes, until the cauliflower is completely tender and breaks apart easily when pierced with a fork.

4. Remove the pot from the heat and use an immersion blender to puree the soup until it is completely smooth and creamy. If it seems to thick, add a little more broth and puree again. Return the pot to the heat and pour in the cream or milk. Cook for a few minutes more, until the soup is heated through.

T5. o serve, ladle the soup into bowls and garnish each serving with some crumbles of blue cheese and pancetta croutons. Or, if you prefer, you can stir the blue cheese into the soup until it is melted, and serve topped with the croutons.