Slow and Saucy Romano Beans

Green beans like to hang around, and I like that they like to hang around. Long after the corn and tomatoes and eggplant have departed from farmers market stalls, the piles of green beans remain, along with their cousins, flat-pod romano beans.

In summer, I give green beans the barely cooked treatment, steaming them just until they are emerald and crisp, and tossing them with a little olive oil, lemon juice, and salt. But in fall bean are more mature and not quite so tender. That’s when I switch to braising.

Romano beans are especially good cooked slowly in tomato sauce. In Italy, tomato-braised green beans are a classic side dish known as fagiolini all’uccelletto—which essentially translates to ‘beans cooked in the style of game birds.’ Simmered slowly, over low heat, in a savory tomato sauce skiped with peperoncino, the beans lose their toughness but retain their meaty texture and earthy flavor.

SLOW AND SAUCY ROMANO BEANS
Makes 6 to 8 servings

Ingredients
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 large cloves garlic, crushed
1/3 cup thinly sliced red onion
1 pound romano beans (stem ends trimmed), cut into 2-inch pieces
1 small small red chili pepper, stemmed, seeded and minced (may substitute a pinch of crushed red pepper flakes)
28 ounces canned, diced, no-salt-added tomatoes, with their juices
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/4 teaspoon sweet Spanish smoked paprika (pimenton; optional)

Instructions
1. Combine the oil, garlic and onion in a deep-sided saute pan over medium heat. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until the onion has softened a bit. Stir in the beans and chili pepper; cook for 2 minutes, then add the tomatoes and their juices. Season with the salt and paprika, if using. Once the mixture starts to bubble, reduce the heat to low, cover and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the beans are tender but not mushy.

2. Uncover; increase the heat to medium-high and cook for 5 minutes, or until the liquid has thickened into a sauce. Transfer the beans and sauce to a serving bowl; discard the garlic and serve.