Scrippelle 'Mbusse [Crêpes in Broth}

It is not widely known that the highest mountain peak in Italy outside of the Alps is in Abruzzo. The Gran Sasso d’Italia is part of the Apennines, the chain of mountains that extends the length of Italy. The corno grande’ (big horn), the Gran Sasso’s highest peak, rises to 2,912 meters—nearly 10,000 feet. In spring, summer, and fall, the mountain is a destination for hikers and picnickers. Large flocks of sheep, as well as herds of cattle and semi-wild horses, graze the mountain’s mid- to lower slopes. In winter, the Gran Sasso attracts skiers.

Not surprisingly, winters in the towns and villages around the Gran Sasso can be harsh. Residents and tourists alike warm up with plates of spaghetti alla chitarra sauced with hearty ragu. Less well known, but equally welcome are the dishes made with crepes: layered timballo, ricotta-filled cannellonii, and crespelle in brodo, or crêpes in broth. This dish, known in dialect as scrippelle ‘mbusse, comes from Abruzzo’s Teramo province, which is bordered by the eastern slopes of the Gran Sasso.

There’s a story that accompanies scrippelle ‘mbusse. It is said that a 19th century sous-chef who was preparing a meal for French officials staying in Teramo accidentally dropped a platter of rolled crêpes into a pot of boiling broth. The result was so good that a new dish was born. The crêpes are light but nourishing, and they soak up the broth like sponges. This is a dish that truly warms the heart and soul and renews the spirit.

SCRIPPELLE ‘MBUSSE {Crêpes in Broth}
Makes 6 servings

Ingredients
3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
1 cup goat’s milk or whole cow’s milk (see NOTE)
2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
About 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups freshly grated pecorino Abruzzese or pecorino romano cheese, plus more for serving
8 cups Brodo di Carne or your favorite homemade chicken broth, more as needed

Instructions
1. Sift the flour into a medium bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, parsley, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Slowly pour the egg mixture into the flour, whisking all the while to avoid lumps. The batter should be the consistency of thick cream. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.

2. In a 9-inch nonstick skillet, melt a little of the butter—just enough to film the bottom of the pan—over medium heat. When the butter is hot, pour in a small ladleful of batter (a scant 1/4 cup) and quickly swirl the pan to coat the bottom with batter, forming a thin pancake. Cook for 30 to 45 seconds, or until just set and barely beginning to brown on the bottom. Using an offset spatula, flip the crepe and cook on the other side for 20 to 30 seconds, or until set. Transfer the crepe to a plate. Continue making crepes until you have used all the batter, making sure to add butter to the pan as needed. Stack the crepes on the plate as you remove them from the pan. You should end up with 12 crepes.

3. In a large saucepan, bring the broth to a boil over medium-high heat. While the broth is heating, assemble the crepes. Sprinkle 2 to 3 tablespoons of cheese on each crepe and roll it up, cigar-style. As the crepes are rolled, place them, seam side down, in shallow bowls, two per bowl. Ladle the hot broth over the crepes and sprinkle with additional pecorino, if you like. Serve hot.

NOTE: I like to make the crêpes with goat’s milk, which echos the earthiness of the pecorino cheese. But regular cow’s milk works fine.