Marmellata di Fichi {Fig Preserves}

A surprising tidbit about figs: They are not technically a fruit at all, but rather more like an inverted flower. Here's how one friend explained it: "They are not an expansion of a fertilized ovary (definition of a fruit). Instead, they are an expansion of a disk (the pedicel), upon which sits hundreds of tiny flowers. That disk expands and wraps around the tiny flowers as it grows. It almost completely encloses the flowers; all that is left is a very tiny hole at the 'bottom' of the fig (what is actually the 'top' of the pseudo-fruit). When you bite into a fig, those little fibrous things inside are flowers, or at least what's left of the flowers."

Even more intriguing (and slightly disturbing) is the way fig plants are pollinated ~ by tiny wasps that lay eggs inside the (non-edible) male figs and that deposit pollen by burrowing inside the (edible) female figs). "Think of the wasp as a tenant, and the fig plant as a landlord who takes payment in the form of pollen," says this post on How Stuff Works. Female wasps eventually end up trapped inside the ripening fruit, where they are digested by enzymes in the fig. It's a crazy, kind of gross, kind of fascinating symbiotic relationship, one that has persisted for millions of years.

I can't say I've ever encountered a wasp inside a fig. Maybe I just scarf them down too quickly. At any rate, I am grateful to those tiny wasps because every year, my little fig tree produces lots of figs. And they make fine preserves.

Like apricotsand plums, figs are easy to turn into jam or preserves (preserves being chunkier than jam) since they thicken nicely without the addition of pectin. You can process the preserves in a water bath for long keeping (up to a year); store them in your refrigerator, where they will keep for several weeks; or pop them in the freezer, where they will keep for months.

MARMELLATA DI FICHI {Fig Preserves}
Makes 1 1/2 pints (three 1/2-pint jars)

Finely chopped orange and lemon zest add a bright note to these sweet preserves. The recipe is simple, as it requires no pectin and no peeling of the fruit. Stir the preserves into yogurt, use them as a filling for a crostata (tart), or ~ for a savory twist ~ brush over pork or chicken for grilling.

Ingredients
2 pounds ripe figs, washed (see NOTES)
2 cups sugar
Freshly squeezed juice and finely minced zest of 1 small orange
Freshly squeezed juice and finely minced zest of 1 lemon

Instructions
1. Cut the tops of the stems off the figs and quarter them lengthwise. Place them in a heavy-bottomed non-reactive saucepan or Dutch oven. Add the sugar, then pour in the orange and lemon juice. Sprinkle the zest on top. Gently mix everything together with a silicone spatula or wooden spoon and let the figs macerate for 30 minutes or up to several hours.

2. Have ready 3 half-pint sterilized jars and their rings and lids. Place 2 or 3 small bowls or plates in the freezer (you will use these to test the jelling point of the preserves).

3. Set the pot over medium-high heat and bring to a boil; reduce the heat to medium and cook at a lively simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the mixture has thickened and turned a couple of shades darker. Remove one of the small bowls or plates from the freezer and spoon a small amount of jam onto it. Return the plate to the freezer for 2 minutes. To test if the preserves are done, nudge the mound gently with your finger; it should wrinkle slightly and feel thick. Tilt the plate. The preserves should move sluggishly; if the mixture seems runny, it is not quite ready and you should continue to cook it for another couple of minutes before testing once more. (If you're testing with a candy thermometer, it should read 220 degrees F.)

4. Ladle the hot preserves into the sterilized jars, leaving 1/4 inch of headspace. Wipe the rims clean if necessary with a clean, damp cloth, and screw the lids on the jars. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Remove the jars and set them upright on a clean kitchen towel. Within a couple of minutes you should hear the jar lids "ping" signifying that they have sealed properly (see NOTES). Let the jars cool to room temperature before storing in a cool, dark place. They will keep for up to a year.

NOTES
My preserving friend Cathy Barrow recommends prepping the figs by putting them in a bowl and pouring boiling water over them. Let them sit for 10 minutes; drain and proceed with the recipe. Otherwise, carefully but thoroughly wash them.

If a jar has failed to seal properly, store it in the refrigerator and use within a month.