Zuppa di Pasta e Fagioli {Fresh Shell Bean and Pasta Soup}

In fall, my farmers’ market is overrun with beans ~ green, wax, Romano, and the variety known here in Virginia as October beans. October beans also go by the name of cranberry beans and, in Italian, borlotti beans. They are classic soup beans.

A certain amount of confusion surrounds October beans so I'd like to clear that up. October beans are shell beans. Unlike the more tender green beans and wax beans, which are types of snap beans, and which you eat whole ~ pod and all ~ shell beans are mature, with tough, indedible pods that. Like English peas in spring, the beans must be removed from their pods and cooked.

On the other hand, although they may resemble dried beans, shell beans are fresh. So while they need shelling, they don't need soaking. They cook quickly, in 30 to 45 minutes. In addition to the cranberry beans pictured above, you might, if you're lucky, come across less common varieties, such as violet-streaked Dragon’s tongue or Bird Egg. Treat them as you would cranberry beans.

Cook them in a pot of simmering water together with some aromatics ~ crushed garlic, a wedge of onion, and a handful of herbs (sage, rosemary, parsley, maybe a bay leaf) until they are tender (see NOTE). They will lose their pretty mottles and streaks during cooking, but on the other hand they will turn creamy and their flavor will be enriched by their herb-spiked broth.

If you're serving the cooked beans on their own, add a splash or two of their cooking broth, salt and pepper (or some minced peperoncino), and, if you like, some thinly sliced red onion (I do). Drizzle generously with top-notch olive oil. These beans are a wonderful side dish to many mains ~ sausages, roast chicken, lamb chops, pork chops, a spinach frittata or platter of cheese and salumi.

But they are also excellent in zuppa di pasta e fagioli. Over the years I have made countless variations on this classic. It's one of those loosey-goosey recipes that takes shape as I'm making it. Sometimes I start with diced pancetta. I might add diced tomatoes, or cut-up green beans, or sliced zucchini. Here's one version, a hearty one with kale and potato added to the usual aromatic mix of carrots, celery, and onion.

ZUPPA DI PASTA E FAGIOLI
Makes 4 servings

Ingredients
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup finely chopped red onion or 2 red spring onions
2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
1 large carrot, cut into dice
1 large rib celery, cut into dice
1 tablespoon minced fresh herbs ~ parsley, sage, rosemary
1 yellow potato, peeled and cut into dice
1 bunch Tuscan kale, coarsely shredded
1/2 cup diced canned tomatoes (optional)
About 3 cups cooked October beans (1 pound in the pod, about 1 1/2 cups raw shelled) plus their cooking broth (see NOTE)
4 to 6 cups vegetable broth or water, or a combination
1 piece Parmigiano rind
Salt and pepper to taste
1 to 1 1/2 cups large soup pasta, such as shells or cavatelli
Best-quality extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Freshly grated parmigiano cheese, for serving

Instructions
1. Measure the oil into a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot. Add the onion, carrot, celery and garlic and set over medium heat. Cook, stirring often, for about 5 minutes, until the onion is softened but not browned. Stir in the herbs, and cook for 2 minutes, until the herbs release their aroma.

2. Add potatoes and kale. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and let the vegetables cook for 10 to 15 minutes, until the kale has wilted. Stir once or twice during this time. Stir in the tomatoes, if using, and cook 5 minutes more.

3. Add the beans and their broth to the pot and stir gently. Pour in 4 cups of vegetable broth or water, toss in the parm rind, and raise the heat to medium-high. Season with salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Stir in the pasta and cook until it is just a little past al dente. This could take 15 to 20 minutes. Cooking time will depend on the size and shape of the pasta; also keep in mind that pasta in soup tends to take longer to cook than pasta in plain boiling water. If the soup seems too thick as the pasta is cooking, add more broth or water.

4. Remove the soup from the heat and let it sit for just a minute or two before ladling into bowls. Drizzle a little of your best olive oil over each serving and sprinkle a spoonful of cheese on top.

NOTE: To cook the shelled beans, put them in a heavy-bottomed pot with water to cover by one inch. Toss in a couple of herb sprigs, a crushed garlic clove, and a wedge of onion. Cover and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover partially, and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the beans are tender but still hold their shape. Season with salt during the last 10 minutes of cooking. Remove from the heat, and discard the herb sprigs, garlic and onion. If not using immediately, let the beans cool in the broth, then store the beans in the broth in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 3 months.