Pasta e Patate | Pasta and Potatoes

Who in the world would think it’s a good idea to double up on carbs by combining these two ingredients? The Neapolitans, obviously, those masters of "cucina povera" who also brought us such clever dishes as eggplant meatballs (see The Glorious Vegetables of Italy for the recipe) and "Vermicelle cu' 'e vongole fujute," ~ vermicelli noodles with "fugitive clam sauce”" (in other words, plain tomato sauce). Like those dishes, pasta e patate is humble, but still manages to fill the belly and the soul.

Generally, pasta e patate calls for a little chopped pork fat, such as pancetta, to enrich the broth and boost flavor. But I've found it's not necessary. Instead, I add something completely unconventional ~ smoked paprika. This Spanish staple adds warmth and depth; it is unexpected but altogether welcome. The bite-size green cubes in the photos are sautéed zucchini, which were left over from a previous night's dinner. I tossed them in at the last minute and liked the result so I've added them to the recipe, which is slightly adapted from the one in my first book, The Glorious Soups and Stews of Italy.

This rustic dish is too thick to be called a soup, but it's not quite "pasta asciutta" (pasta with sauce) either. It is, most definitely, a bowl of comfort food. I suggest you eat it with a spoon, to scoop up the saucy broth ~ or brothy sauce.

PASTA E PATATE
Makes 4 to 6 servings

Ingredients
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 bunch scallions (about 6), ends trimmed and white and green parts thinly sliced crosswise
2 carrots, peeled and cut into thin rounds or bite-sized pieces
1 large rib celery, plus leaves, cut crosswise into thin slices
2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 zucchini, quartered lengthwise and cut into bite-sized pieces
2 Yukon gold or other yellow-fleshed potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 teaspoon Spanish smoked paprika, or more to taste
Generous pinch of ground cayenne pepper
6 to 7 cups homemade or best-quality commercial chicken or vegetable broth, or water
1/2 cup best-quality canned tomatoes, smashed, or tomato puree
1 piece Parmigiano-Reggiano rind
1 1/2 cups soup pasta, such as mezze-maniche, medium shells, etc.
1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Instructions
1. Warm the olive oil in a Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot set over medium heat. Add the scallions, carrots, celery, and parsley, and saute, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, or until the vegetables have begun to wilt. Reduce the heat to medium-low, if necessary, to prevent the scallions from scorching.

2. Add the zucchini and potatoes, salt, smoked paprika, and cayenne and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until the zucchini starts to soften. Stir in 3 cups of the broth, raise the heat to medium and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring once or twice, for about 5 minutes, until the broth is slightly reduced.

3. Stir in the tomato puree and the Parmigiano rind and return the soup to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover partially, and cook at a gentle but steady simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, until the potatoes and carrots are tender.

4. Add 3 more cups broth, raise the heat to medium-high, and bring the soup once more to a boil. Stir in the pasta and cook, uncovered, until the pasta is al dente; the cooking time will vary depending on the shape of the pasta, the brand, and how thick the broth is. If the soup is too thick, or if you prefer it a little soupier, add some or all of the remaining broth while the pasta is cooking.

5. Remove from the heat and stir in 1/2 cup of the cheese. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and smoked paprika, if you like. Let the soup sit for a minute or two before ladling it into bowls. Sprinkle each serving with a little more cheese.