Pallotte Cace e Ove: Meatless Egg and Cheese "Meatballs" from Abruzzo

One of my favorite examples of Abruzese ingenuity in the kitchen can be found in these pallotte cace e ove ~ "polpette cacio e uova" in proper Italian. Which is to say, meatballs that contains no meat. What they do contain is lots of pecorino cheese, bound together with bread and egg. The mixture is formed into balls, fried, and then simmered in tomato sauce. Once strictly a home-cooking dish, pallotte have become trendy in the last few years, and you will find them on menus in restaurants across Abruzzo.

The secret to making good pallotte is the ratio of cheese to bread ~ about 2:1 in weight. This keeps the pallotte light in texture and extra savory and tangy in flavor. As for the cheese, if you're not familiar with Abruzzo you might not know that it is a land of sheep's milk cheeses, in other words, pecorino. For many generations, the region's economy was tied to raising sheep. In a centuries-old phenomenon known as the 'transumanza,' millions of sheep were herded down to Puglia for the winter, then back up to the green mountains of Abruzzo in summer. Although the ritual has gradually diminished during the 20th and 21st centuries, it persists in a few pockets in the mountains. And, thankfully, so does the production of sheep's milk cheeses.

The variety of pecorino cheeses in Abruzzo is impressive and ranges from only slightly aged pecorino primo sale (a good melting cheese) to intense, mature cheeses aged for a year or longer. Pecorino from Abruzzo is not easy to find in the U.S., but you can buy it online at Marcelli Formaggi (the Marcelli family produces some of Abruzzo’s best pecorino’s cheeses). Pecorino Toscano, more widely available, is a good substitute. Not to worry if you can't find either; you can make pallotte from a mix of pecorino Romano and Parmigiano-Reggiano, or even just with pecorino Romano.

To shape pallotte, pinch off golf ball-sized pieces of the mixture and roll them into spheres. Or, if you want to be fancy, use a tablespoon size ice cream disher, a scoop with a release function ~ though you will still have to roll the portions into balls. Fry the pallotte in a neutral oil, such as sunflower oil, then plonk them right into a pot of Simple Tomato Sauce to finish cooking. They will absorb sauce and flavor along the way, making them even more savory and tender. The sauce, in turn, gets a savory boost from the cheese. A win-win recipe, if you ask me, and you won't miss the meat at all.

PALLOTTE CACE E OVE
Makes 16 to 18 pallotte, to serve six

INGREDIENTS
8 ounces (3 packed cups) grated Pecorino cheese, plus more for serving
4 ounces (3 cups) fresh breadcrumbs
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
2 small cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional)
Sunflower oil for frying

Simple Tomato Sauce, heated to a simmer

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Combine the cheese, breadcrumbs, eggs, garlic, and parsley, if using, in a bowl and mix thoroughly. Form the mixture into golf-size balls and set them on a wax paper-lined tray. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

2. In a deep skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 to 2 inches sunflower oil to 375° F (190° C). Line a plate or baking sheet with paper towels. Fry the pallotte, in batches if necessary, for 1 to 2 minutes, until golden brown, turning them as they cook for even browning. Transfer them with a slotted spoon or skimmer to the paper towel-lined plate to drain. Then transfer them to the pot of tomato sauce and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, until heated through.

3. Serve the pallotte and sauce in shallow bowls, with grated Pecorino for sprinkling on top.