ZucChine Sott'Olio | Oil-Preserved Summer Squash

Turns out you can only eat so many summer squash fritters. So what to do with the rest of this generous vegetable? If you are lucky enough to have a glut of zucchini or other summer squash in your garden ~ or if you’ve bought too much at the farmers’ market ~ consider preserving some in oil. This is a traditional Italian preparation, similar to the way eggplant is preserved, with a classic seasoning of mint and garlic. It takes a little time, but it’s an easy 1-2-3 process of salting, marinating, and drying the squash before packing it in jars with olive oil. You can make as much or as little as you like, and there’s no processing or canning involved.

In fact, let me emphasize that you shouldn’t try to can this, either in a boiling water bath or a pressure canner, because you will end up with a poor seal (oil does that) and a jar of mush. Just pop the jars in the fridge, where the preserve will last for 6 months. To serve, set a jar out at room temperature to give the oil a chance to re-liquify, as it does tend to congeal when chilled.

How to enjoy these colorful, mint-infused zucchini pickles? I love them as an accompaniment to roast chicken or grilled lamb. You can serve them as part of an antipasto platter, toss them in a frittata, or sprinkle them on pizza, along with crumbled feta.

By the way, when I wrote “lucky enough to have a glut of zucchini” I meant it. When it comes to summer squash it seems I am doomed. I have never been able to grow it successfully (bug invasions, root rot, etc.). For the last month, my daughter’s two plants had been producing beautiful, luminous golden squashes ~ right up until the other day when the larger of the two, which seemed perfectly positioned in a backyard plot and appeared to relish throwing its stalks and broad leaves up towards the sun, suddenly wilted and expired. It had been healthy and prolific until that moment. I still have no idea what caused its dramatic and swift demise. Luckily, the other one continues to chug along. For now, anyway.

ZUCCHINE SOTT’OLIO
Makes about 1 1/2 pints

INGREDIENTS
3 pounds (1.4 kg) yellow or green summer squash, or a mix
2 to 4 fresh peperoncini (chili peppers), according to taste
3 tablespoons coarse sea salt, plus more as needed
2 cups (475 ml) white wine vinegar, or 1 cup white wine vinegar and 1 cup cider vinegar
3/4 cup (180 ml) water
1 clove garlic, thinly sliced (see important note below)
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint
Extra-virgin olive oil

EQUIPMENT
3 (1/2-pint) jars and lids, sterilized (see NOTE)

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Cut the squash lengthwise into quarters (like dill pickle spears) and slice off the seedy interior. Cut the quarters crosswise into thin wedges and put them in a bowl. Slice the peperoncini crosswise into small pieces and add them to the squash. Toss with 3 tablespoons salt and leave to marinate for several hours and up to overnight. You can do this in a colander if you prefer less salt in your final preserve. Set the colander over a bowl and allow the squash to drain several hours and up to overnight. Rinse and drain the squash, squeezing as much liquid out as you can; I roll the squash up in a clean kitchen towel and press out the liquid. Transfer the squash to a heat-proof bowl.

2. Measure the vinegar, water, and garlic into a saucepan and bring to a boil. Boil for 2 minutes to make sure the garlic cooks through. Pour the boiling brine over the squash and let cool to room temperature; this will take a couple of hours. Drain and again press out as much liquid as possible.

3. Spread the squash pieces out on clean kitchen towels or a tablecloth and let them dry for about 48 hours, until they are barely damp; they should feel pliable and slightly leathery.

4. Transfer the squash to a clean bowl and toss with the mint. Pour in enough olive oil to just cover the squash and let marinate for 2 hours. Pack the squash into the sanitized jars and top off with enough oil to submerge the vegetable pieces. Screw on the lids and let sit for 24 hours at room temperature before storing in the refrigerator. Allow the squash to “cure” in the fridge for at least a week so the flavors have time to mingle.

NOTES: To sterilize the jars, run them through the dishwasher, or put them on a baking sheet and set them in a cold oven; turn the heat to 225° F (110° C) and let the jars heat for 30 minutes. Wash the lids in hot soapy water before capping the filled jars.

A note about garlic: I wrote extensively about garlic in my book Preserving Italy. But in brief I’d like to remind you that it should never be added raw to oil-based preserves. There is always a possibility that garlic, which grows underground, might harbor botulinum toxin spores, which can cause botulism. The toxin can flourish in a warm anaerobic (airless) environment, such as an oil-filled jar. However, once the garlic is properly cooked and/or pickled, as in this recipe, it is fine for you to add it to the preserve. You can, of course, opt to remove the garlic before packing the zucchini into jars, after it has had a chance to impart its flavor.