Zuppa di Farro e Zucca

This is the soup to get you through fall and winter. Nutrient-rich borlotti beans, tender chunks of sweet Delicata squash, and nutty grains of farro are the stars, with support from that Italian flavor trinity of carrots, celery and onion, plus fresh autumn herbs.

I specify Delicata squash because I am partial to its golden color and gentle sweet flavor. Also, its rind is thin and fairly easy to peel; you can even leave it on, as it becomes tender during cooking. Butternut squash is a good alternative as it, too, has a mild sweet flavor and is easy to peel. For your own sanity, I recommend staying away from hard-rind varieties that are difficult and time-consuming to cut and peel.

As for the broth, I’ve made this with vegetable broth, chicken broth, a mix of broth and water, and only water. It’s always delicious but if you do use only water, be sure you add the parmigiano rind for added enrichment. See the note at the bottom of the recipe for variations.

ZUPPA DI FARRO E ZUCCA
Makes about 6 servings

INGREDIENTS
1 cup (170 g) pearled farro (see NOTE)
Good extra-virgin olive oil
1 small yellow onion, chopped
2 carrots, diced
1 or 2 ribs of celery, diced
1 peperoncino, minced; or a pinch of dried red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon each finely chopped flat-leaf parsley and sage leaves
1 medium or 2 small yellow potatoes, peeled and cubed
1 Delicata squash, peeled, seeded, and cubed; or about 2 cups
2 cups (400 g) cooked borlotti (cranberry) beans, either home-cooked or canned
Vegetable or chicken broth + water
1 piece Parmigiano-Reggiano rind, plus freshly grated parmigiano for serving

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Rinse the farro several times; then put it in a deep saucepan and cover with water by 2 inches. Add a generous pinch of salt. Bring to a boil over medium heat and let it simmer until al dente, about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat, cover, and let sit.

2. Pour a generous glug (about 1/4 cup / 60 ml) olive oil into a heavy-bottomed pot. Tip in the onions, carrots, and celery, and set over medium heat. Stir in the peperoncino and herbs, plus 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring, for 7 to 8 minutes, until the vegetables are softened.

3. Add the potatoes and squash and about 1 cup (240 ml) broth. Cover and cook at a gentle simmer for 15-20 minutes, until the potatoes and squash start to soften.

4. Stir in the borlotti beans and their liquid, either cooking liquid or from the can. Pour in another 3 cups (700 ml) broth or water, or a mix. Toss in the parmigiano rind and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat to medium-low and let simmer until all the vegetables are tender.

5. Add the cooked farro to the soup, along with a little of the cooking liquid ~ optional but it adds yet another layer of flavor and is useful if the soup is on the thick side. Cover partly and continue to cook until the farro is fully tender and the soup is thickened. Use the back of your spoon to mash some of the potato and squash cubes against the side of the pot; this will give the soup a dense, creamy texture. Turn off the heat and let the soup sit for 5 minutes.

6. Serve with a drizzle of good olive oil and a shower of fresh parmigiano cheese.

NOTE: Most farro sold in grocery stores is “pearled” farro. It has no husk and all of the bran has been “polished” away, leaving a quick-cooking, mild-flavored grain. It takes about 20 minutes to cook pearled farrro to an al dente texture. Whole farro contains the husk and the bran, and therefore more nutrients. It takes at least 45 minutes to an hour of cooking, and sometimes longer, for whole farro to obtain al dente texture, and even when it’s fully cooked it retains a pleasant chewiness that is lacking in pearled farro. I have made this soup with both, and it works well with either.

Variations: For extra flavor, start the soup by sautéing a couple of ounces of diced pancetta in a splash of oil before adding the aromatics.

For a “red” version of the soup, pour in about 1 cup tomato purée or tomato sauce when you add the potatoes and squash.

For a “green” version, slice one bunch Tuscan kale and wilt it in a pan with a little olive oil and water (you can add salt and thinly sliced garlic for additional flavor). Add the wilted kale to the soup with the borlotti beans.