Porcini Mushroom Ragu

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Ragu doesn't need to contain meat to be rich. This autumnal sauce stars savory porcini mushrooms, which contribute an earthy flavor and meaty texture. I rely on dried porcini, as it is next to impossible to find fresh ones where I live. Be sure to save the soaking liquid after reconstituting the porcini; stirred into the sauce, it adds even more depth.

Ingredients

  • 2 ounces dried porcini mushrooms (see NOTE)

  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

  • 1 carrot, finely chopped

  • 1 rib celery, finely chopped

  • 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped

  • 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

  • 2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

  • 2 (28-ounce) cans best-quality canned whole tomatoes, passed through a tomato mill or squished by hand

  • Fine sea salt

Instructions

Put the porcini in a pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then turn off the heat and cover the pot. Let the porcini steep for 20 to 30 minutes. Drain through a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth, taking care to capture the liquid in a bowl. Reserve the liquid and rough-chop the porcini. Set them aside separately.

Warm the oil in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan set over medium-low heat. Stir in the carrot, celery, onion, garlic, and parsley, and cook until softened, about 7 minutes. Stir in the porcini and a generous splash or two of the reserved liquid. Cook, stirring often, until the liquid is mostly evaporated. Add the tomatoes and raise the heat to medium-high. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover partially, and simmer for 20 to 30 minutes, until the sauce is thickened. Season to taste with salt. Stir in another splash or two of the reserved porcini sauce (you may not use it all), and simmer another 20 minutes, until the sauce is thick and fragrant, and the oil pools at the surface.

If not using immediately, let the sauce cool to room temperature. Transfer it to a container with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate for up to 5 days or freeze for up to 3 months.

NOTE
You can find packages of dried porcini in Italian grocery stores and gourmet shops, or online at purveyors such as Gustiamo.com.

BASICSDomenica Marchetti