Simple Tomato Sauce

When plum tomatoes are out of season, I turn to this simple pantry sauce made with canned tomatoes. Because there are so few ingredients in this sauce, make sure you choose good-quality tomatoes and olive oil. For a fresh-tasting sauce, look for tomatoes canned in their juices rather than heavy puree, and without additional seasonings added. For a smooth sauce, use a food mill if you have one, as it easily removes the seeds and extra bits of pulp.

The addition of a carrot is a trick I learned years ago; it helps to balance the acidity of the tomatoes and adds a touch of sweetness to the sauce.

This sauce is good on its own tossed with pasta, but it’s also perfect for simmering meatballs or sausages. Add a couple of ladlefuls to soups or to stews to give them greater depth of flavor.

SIMPLE TOMATO SAUCE
Makes about 1 quart/liter

INGREDIENTS
2 (24-ouce) bottles tomato passata or 2 (28-ounce/800g) cans whole peeled tomatoes
1 clove garlic, lightly crushed
1/2 cup finely chopped yellow or red onion
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Pinch of peperoncino (dried chili pepper); optional
1 small carrot (optional, for sweetness)
Fine salt
1 branch fresh basil, leaves and stem

INSTRUCTIONS
1. For a smooth sauce, pass the whole tomatoes, if using, through a food mill fitted with the disk with the smallest holes. For a sauce with more texture, just pour the tomatoes and their juices into a bowl and squeeze them with your hands to break them up.

2. Place the garlic, onion, and olive oil in a large saucepan and set it over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring often, until the oil starts to sizzle. Press down on the garlic to release its fragrance. Cook for 5 minutes, to soften the onion. Take care not to let the garlic or onion brown or the sauce will be bitter. Remove the garlic, if you like (I leave it in). Stir in the chili pepper, if using.

3. Carefully pour in the tomatoes (the oil may splatter). Drop in the carrot, if using, and season with a pinch of salt. Raise the heat to medium-high and bring the sauce to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low and lay the branch of basil on top. Simmer gently, stirring from time to time, for 30 to 35 minutes, until the sauce has thickened and the oil has pooled on the surface. Remove the basil and garlic and adjust the seasoning with more salt if you like.

The sauce may be stored in a tightly lidded container in the refrigerator for up to a week or in the freezer for 6 months.